Right, came here to say the exact same thing. My eyes aren't the best. First thing I did was to open chrome dev tools and fiddle in 'p { color: black }' to make it readable at all for me..
I wondered what everyone was talking about here, then realized that since I have noscript installed, I was looking at the site with no javascript - and it was perfectly readable. Once I activated javascript I saw what the fuss was about. So much clearer without javascript.
I use the Evernote Clearly extension on web pages like this. It does a great job of improving the readability. It also removes a lot of the non-content stuff around the edges.
I use an extension called 'change colours' in Chrome. It lets me set different background and text colours, and it allows me to change the link colours, and it allows me to change the font and font size.