>I can agree with this. But, to the point that others have made, I do wonder what this and the availability of beta videos for many, many routes and blocs does to climbing skill overall.
That's a fair concern. That said, there are certain sequences that I'm physically incapable of doing without a dedicated multi-month program of stretching beforehand. Turns out falling on a thumbs-down jam is close enough to a shoulder dislocation that I maybe should've done some PT about it. The extreme is, obviously, the Edlinger vs. American example, but I think the middle ground actually addresses people's peculiar body geometry and/or range of motion. Alex Honnold's exact hip or elbow position might not be as meaningful for Ashima, even if they're on the exact same route.
Such nuances have made a difference in some cases (the one that springs to mind is Todd Skinner's observation that Steve Petro's hips sagged just a little mid-crux on Fiddler on the Roof, which, until corrected, had prevented Petro from nabbing the first ascent of one of the hardest cracks ever climbed to that point). Probably a net-bad for folks projecting Midnight Lightning or similar, but definitely useful for somebody looking to repeat Silence or whatever.
That's a fair concern. That said, there are certain sequences that I'm physically incapable of doing without a dedicated multi-month program of stretching beforehand. Turns out falling on a thumbs-down jam is close enough to a shoulder dislocation that I maybe should've done some PT about it. The extreme is, obviously, the Edlinger vs. American example, but I think the middle ground actually addresses people's peculiar body geometry and/or range of motion. Alex Honnold's exact hip or elbow position might not be as meaningful for Ashima, even if they're on the exact same route.
Such nuances have made a difference in some cases (the one that springs to mind is Todd Skinner's observation that Steve Petro's hips sagged just a little mid-crux on Fiddler on the Roof, which, until corrected, had prevented Petro from nabbing the first ascent of one of the hardest cracks ever climbed to that point). Probably a net-bad for folks projecting Midnight Lightning or similar, but definitely useful for somebody looking to repeat Silence or whatever.